ESARN'S TOP FOOD

The Northeastern area of Thailand is known as Isaan Province (ภาคอีสาน ee-săan).  It is surrounded by Laos to the North and East, Cambodia to the South, and Thailand to the West.  Isaan is located on the Khorat Plateau with the great Mekong River bordering it’s Northern boundary.  Around 21 million Thai’s are home to this territory, which happens to be famous for it’s cuisine!

Family gatherings are a huge part of the Isaan culture and food is always present.  Meals are often leisurely periods of time to enjoy eating Thai food and times to socialize while eating an array of dishes.  Sticky Rice is the staple and an abundant form of energy in Isaan.

Isaan Sticky Rice Basket

Issan has developed a multitude of outstanding dishes that have become famous throughout the world.  Thai Papaya Salad also known as Som Tam originates from Isaan and is now one of the most sought after Thai dishes around.  Meat salads like Larb Moo and Nam Tok Moo are hugely popular as well.  Grilled meats are marinated before being char-broiled to maximize sensational flavor.  Fish are often coated with a thick layer of salt before being grilled in order to retain natural moisture and add flavor.  

Som Tam

Most Isaan dishes served with sticky rice and are characterized by fiery chilies, strong fish sauces, sour bites, and flavorful saucy mixtures.  Many dishes are prepared as salads with a spicy and sour (also fishy) sauce, convenient to be used as dipping sauces for balls of sticky rice.  Some of the sauces are notorious for being pungent and smelly or even giving “tong sia,” stomach aches.     

Where to Find Isaan Food

If you are looking for an Isaan restaurant or street cart in Bangkok, keep an eye out for carts with a clay pot (krok) and a vendor with a foot long wooden mallet pounding into the pot.  Another sign of Isaan food is some catfish or chicken smoking away on the side of a street cart.  A restaurant with this description will surely serve som tam and whatever other Isaan specialties that are on hand.  Don’t look too hard as Isaan food is available on almost every street in Bangkok.

ESARN'S MENU

Ant egg salads, street food counters lined with entrails, carts filled with bugs, I understand why visitors to Thailand can be put off by Isan food. Not all of it is appealing. Some the complete opposite. But bravado and beetle munching aside Isan food offers much of the best eating in Thailand. Less celebrated globally but hugely popular locally. This is my guide to the exciting dishes of Northeast Thailand. My Top 10 Isan Food. Eat Isan food with sticky rice and booze and optional sides of White Cabbage (Pak Gad Khao), Sweet Basil (Horapa), Long Beans (Tua Fak Yao). In Bangkok Isan food is easy enough to track down in the central Sukhumvit area but for truly authentic Isan food it will be necessary for Isan Tours.

 

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1. Grilled Pork Neck (Kor Moo Yang, คอหมูย่าง)

Perfect slices of pork neck, coated in a rich, sticky marinade, barbecued over charcoals and served with a sour, spicy side of chilli sauce (Nam Jim Jaew). Sounds good? I can go one better. Yum Kor Moo Yang. The added ‘Yum’ meaning ‘to mix hot and tangy ingredients’. Combine the grilled pork neck with a sweet, sour, salty and hot salad and perfection. The signature combination of Thai tastes is the reason why Yum Kor Moo Yang sits top of my Top 10 Isan Food list. Yum Kor Moo Yang is best found in evenings at Isan roadside barbecues along with me and some beers.

 

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2. Minced Pork Salad (Laab Moo, ลาบหมู)

Originating from Laos this fiery minced pork salad is the big favourite in Isan food. While there are variations the most popular Laab comes as a stir-fried minced pork dish with shallots, coriander and mint leaves. Seasoned with the salty of fish sauce and the sour of lime juice. Note Laab is at times found with raw uncooked meat. I would strongly advise against it.

 

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3. Grilled Pork Salad (Nam Tok Moo, น้ำตกหมู)

Laab’s chewy brother. While others bundle it together with Laab I thought I’d be kind and give Nam Tok a place of its own. The difference between the two is the meat preparation. Instead of the minced pork as in Laab the Nam Tok Moo combines a tasty grilled pork with delicious laab flavours. Also available as beef (Nam Tok Neua). Fun fact, the name Nam Tok translates as ‘Waterfall’. Cute?

 

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4. Isan Sausages (Sai Krok Isaan, ไส้กรอกอีสาน)

Named after the Northeastern region in which it originates. This scrumptious sausage is one of my favourite street foods. Also one of the most common. The Isan sausage brings a unique sour taste brought about by the fermenting of pork and sticky rice. Accompanying Galam (cabbage), sliced ginger and fresh chillies add that extra heat and spice (occasionally lime and peanuts). Roll together in a cabbage leaf, pop in your mouth, eat. Amazing. In evening hours, in puffs of smoke, lined with plump sausages, the Isan Sausage vendors are easy to identify. Cost 10 baht per skewer.

 

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5. Thai Hot Pot (Jim Jum,จิ้มจุ่ม)

The fiery Thai interpretation to the famous Chinese Hot Pot. Jim Jum, originating from Isan, uses a signature Thai infused broth of shallot, Lemongrass, Chilli, Garlic and Sweet Basil. The rest is up to you. Jim Jum allows eaters to pick and prepare their own favourite ingredients. Cooked at hot pots on restaurant tables. Meats, veg, noodles whatever tickles your fancy. Once fully cooked the Jim Jum is served in small soup bowls and mixed with a hot, sour, tangy chilli sauce (Nam Jim). While traditionally prepared in clay pots the modern Jim Jum is now best found in franchised restaurants (Joom Zap Hut) at most major malls of Thailand.

 

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6. Grilled Chicken (Kai Yang, ไก่ย่าง)

Kai Yang can be found all day, everyday, at near every street food area. It is a staple in Thailand’s diet and a great option for the non-spicy food lover. For those with spicier cravings the accompanying sides of sweet or hot chilli sauce will liven things up a bit. Best found sizzling over flaming charcoals at Bangkok’s evening barbecues. When travelling in Isan Kai Yang is found everywhere. Often hawked on large sticks like giant chicken lollipops.

 

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7.  Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Saap, ต้มแซ่บ)

The Isan equivalent to the better known Tom Yum? Tom Saap literally translates as “Tasty Soup”, Saap in Isan meaning Tasty. And yes it definitely lives up to its name. Sweet, Sour, Salty and Hot. Add savoury and hearty with chunks of pork ribs, mushroom and tomatoes. This delectable pork soup does give Tom Yum a run for its money. May contain innards…

 

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8. Papaya Salad (Som Tam Korat, ส้มตำโคราช)

Easily recognised by large mortar and pestles and bright red tomatoes. Som Tam stands are one of Thailand’s most common street food vendors. In the large mortar and pestle strips of green (unripe) papaya are crunched together with a handful of ingredients which include palm sugar, lime, fish sauce (pla ra), peanuts and chillies. Som Tam Korat is an extreme salad. It is the Isan equivalent of the better known Som Tam Thai. The distinguishing difference being added pickled fish sauce (pla ra). Fiery, a little stinky but delicious.

 

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9. Grilled Fish (Pla Pao, ปลาเผา)

Accompanying Kai Yang over flaming charcoals. Fish are gutted, stuffed with pandanus leaves and lemongrass then coated with flour and rock salt before taking a grilling over charcoal barbecues. Served with a fish sauce, lime and chilli dip. Eat the meat not the skin. There are three common freshwater fish found at evening Isan food barbecues. Tilapia (Pla Nin), catfish (Pla Duk Dam) and snakehead fish (Pla Duk Yan).  A favourite fish grill hangout (pictured) is found near the front of CentralWorld Mall on the walk towards Pratunam area.

 

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10. Marinated Pork (Moo Dad Diew, หมูแดดเดียว)

The Thai equivalent to the delectable pork Jerky. Ok not overly exciting but does well for a quick nibble. Small bites of pork, marinated in dark soy, oyster sauce, garlic, pepper and palm sugar. Occasionally sprinkled with sesame seeds. The marinated pork is then left in the sun to catch some rays. Dry and glaze. A quick grilling at roadside street food vendors gives an added smokey flavour. End result, a chewy, sticky, nibbletastic pork snack. Served with a sour and spicy chilli dip (Nam Jim Jaew).

 

WHAT IS ESARN FOOD

About E-San

Thais from the Northeast section of Thailand, Issan (or Esan), consider themselves Lao, and historically this part of Thailand and Laos have very close connections reflected in the music, dress and of course the food. E-San's chef, Ting Pathammavong, was raised there, and now she blends her own variations of recipes from her traditional land.

For over 10 years, Ting worked in the kitchen of just about every Thai restaurant in Portland before a friend suggested that she and her husband, Mao, open up their own. That was over 6 years ago, and if asked about it, Mao smiles and says he still loves it, and would rather be at work than at home. He jokingly says that when he is at home, his twin daughters play with each other, leaving him nothing to do.

When asked what makes his restaurant voted "Portland's Best," he simply says, "We use only fresh ingredients. We can't be open for breakfast, because we spend the morning buying the food for that day."

He also says he has a wonderful staff, and says, "We're really happy here. And a happy staff makes a happy customer. Some have even been with me from the beginning." It's true, his bartender, Raphael Rodriguez, was working the downtown restaurant when Mao bought the place. It is difficult to stump Raphael with even obscure drinks.

Recently, Mao's sister, Air, came over from Thailand to help him open up E-San's second location just off of Northwest 23rd. When asked what the future holds for E-San, Mao said, "Well, my other sister just graduated from the Culinary Institute in Esan, and will soon be coming over to help out." Even with multiple locations, E-San is still family owned and operated.

About Thai Food

The adage of Thai cooking is simple: Cook with your tongue! In traditional Thai cuisine, recipes are more like guidelines, and each chef is free to deviate to compensate for a particular ingredient's flavor changes or to fit a new locale. In fact, many Thai chefs have difficulty with western cooking because in Thailand, there are no measuring cups.

Thai chefs learn to cook by watching and helping in the kitchen... by "internalizing the system" instead of by following written instructions. This is why you will find such a wide variation between restaurants.

Having trouble understanding that menu? Here are a few definitions of the descriptions of traditional Thai dishes:

• Yum: literally means to mix. Meat with herbs and spices, vegetable with spices, meat and vegetables with spices mix with sauce. Some sauces are sour and spicy, some are spicy and sweet.
• Gang Jeude: clear broth soup with vegetable or meat or both.
• Gang Ped or Gang: spicy broth with or without coconut milk. The majority of gangs use curry paste and coconut milk.
• Pud or Phad: vegetable or meat stir fried.
• Tod: pan fried or deep fried, (i.e. Tod Mun is fried fish cakes).
• Yang: grilled (i.e. Gai Yang is grilled chicken)